Things to look for are your rabbits not eating, weight loss, dribbling, and a wet chin. You will need the vet to check the teeth

 if any of these symptoms occur. There are two main reasons for bad teeth. First, it can be passed from parents to

 offspring - usually it will start young if this is the case. Second can be not enough roughage in the diet. Hay is the best thing

for a rabbit to eat as it will wear the teeth down correctly .       

The best way to treat maloccluded incisors is to have them completely and permanently removed. This is a surgical procedure

 that must be done very carefully and patiently by a rabbit-experienced veterinarian, to ensure complete root removal.

The rabbit will probably need to be on pain medication for a day or two after surgery (Banamine (flunixin) is excellent for rabbits), but once the patient has recovered, the only adjustment the rabbit "parent" needs to make is to cut up fresh food into bite-sized pieces. Pellets and hay can be handled as before, without problems. Many rabbits who have maloccluded incisors, and even a great number who have perfectly occluded incisors, still develop molar spurs. These are sharp points on the edges of the molars that result from uneven wear. These points can abrade the tongue and cheek, causing enough pain and irritation to stop the rabbit from eating. Left unattended, this stress can trigger a potentially life-threatening condition called ???

In some very extreme cases, molar spurs can actually grow into the tongue or cheek, causing extreme pain. In one incidence, a molar spur had grown over the tongue, forming a "bridge" that prevented the rabbit from moving his tongue! Molar spurs can be filed down by your veterinarian, who may use anything from a Dremel tool to a blunt-tipped diamond nail file. The rabbit is usually put under light anesthesia (e.g., isofluane gas), and the procedure rarely takes longer than a few minutes.

As a bunny ages, he sometimes gradually suffers bone loss, just as an elderly human does. When this happens, the molars may become just the slightest bit looser in their sockets, inviting uneven wear and other problems, sometimes extending to the roots. In some cases, molar roots in older rabbits can begin to extend farther into the maxilla (upper jaw) or mandible (lower jaw) than normal, and may impinge on the tear ducts, causing runny eyes. In other cases, "overgrown" molar roots may even puncture the sinuses or the eye orbit, allowing intrusion of mouth bacteria into areas meant to remain sterile. This, of course, could be the beginning of an abscess. If you have an elderly bunny with any signs of molar root problems, you are wise to allow your veterinarian to do take a series of head radiographs to detect developing problems before they become serious.                                                       

 Examples of bad teeth    

Back molars at the top there are spurs, these can cut into the toung, then bottom photo after fileing

DENTAL ABSCESS 

FLYSTRIKE

It is vital to check your rabbits rear-end daily, especially in summer. If it is messy, then flies are attracted to it and will lay eggs there.

 These will hatch within 24 hours and the maggots will then feed on your rabbits. Prompt action must be taken, as it is often fatal.

If your rabbit is prone to a messy bum, then its vital to correct it. This is usually due to diet - too much protein in their food.

A complete pellet is best - one that is low in protein and high in fibre.  A rabbit that is overweight cannot clean itself,

so is at risk. If your rabbit is prone to messy bum then take precautions and use an insect repelent in the warmer months.

There are a few around i use zentex. You can get this from your vet, it will last a long time, so dont be put off by the price.

This will not work well on a rabbit that has a dirty bottom for any lengh of time so use the rear guard if its ongoing and check daily.

New products are coming on the market all the time so look out for them. The best thing though is to get there diet

and weight right then there will be little chance of it happing. A good idea in the summer is to attatch netting to the front of

the cage to stop flys getting in. Also do the run in netting.

If the worst happens and your rabbit gets fly strike then get to a vet immediately.If it happens when there is no vet available then pick of all visable maggots with tweesers if neccesary. Cut the fur away from the site so its easier to see them. Once there all off if there are wounds that look like holes in the skin then hold the area usualy the rear end in tepid water for about 20 mins. Maggots need to breath so they will come out of the holes, then pick them off. if your rabbit will not let you hold the area under water then spread a thickish layer of vasaline over the holes and wait to see if any maggots pop up. As soon as possable get the rabbit to the vet. Be warned there may be further hatchings within 24 hrs, so keep checking.

Plants that ward off flys.  Just make sure that all these plants are out of reach of your bunny.

• Nigella - Love in a Mist, is a pretty annual, which is a good fly and midge repellent;
• Lads Love - Artemisia abrotanum, a small bush with grey-green leaves and a pungent aroma which acts as a general insect repellent;
• Gilead – Cedronella canariensis, a strongly camphor-scented evergreen shrub with showy pink flowers. The dried leaves and flowers make a moth and insect repelling potpourri;
• Herbs – e.g. Balm, Chamomile, Hemp, Lavender, Peppermint, Basil, and Green Oregano have pungent smells which repel many insects.

                                            EYES

MYXOMATOSIS   

This is widespread in this country thanks to its introduction by  the Australians. It is carried to your rabbit from an infected rabbit via fleas or mosquitoes (blood sucking insects). When they bite your rabbit, they pass on the virus. The first symptoms are reddened eyelids and swollen genitals. There is an injection against mixi and you are advised to get it done as soon as you get your rabbit (guinea pigs cannot get it). The jabs are either once or twice yearly, depending on the proximity of mixi in your area. As well as the jab whitch is not guarenteed to work you can use a insect repelent on your rabbit during the warmer months. The best thing is fly netting on the cage and keep rabbits in when the midges come out in the summer months. check your rabbit for fleas regularly .                         

VHD              

This is Viral Hemorrhagic Disease, which is deadly and kills so fast - often before you know what's happening. Symptoms are lack of appetite, breathing problems, bleeding, and high temperature. There is an injection to prevent this, and this jab is a must. VHD cannot be avoided as it is carried on the wind (airborne).  

FLEAS All wild rabbits will carry fleas. If you have a cat or your rabbits are visited by foxes then your rabbit  may have them to. There are now flea treatments for rabbits that can be obtained from your vet. Also there are the over the counter ones [ not as good]. When treating rabbits remember that if you have two rabbits living together that they may ingest the medication by grooming there partner. This can be fatel . Its advised to keep them apart for 7 days. If you do have two then speak to your vet about this he may be able to recoment a treatment less harmfull.        

MITES           

These are very common and easily treated. Mites can come in via the hay and straw and then sometimes build up on the rabbit. The symptoms are dandruff, small bald patches, usually on the neck to start with, and itchy skin. The skin can get very sore and broken if left. Early treatment is best.  Also there are many reasons for eye problems, to many to go into. Runny eyes are usualy the first sign of problems either with the eye or teeth. Discharges from the eyes should be seen by the vet. It may well just turn out to be a simple infection, or blocked tear duct.       

SNUFFLES [PASTURELLA]

This is like the common cold in rabbits, but more sinister. It cannot, as yet, be cured and can lead to all sorts of health problems. Symptoms are runny nose, clear or heavy discharge, sneezing and lethargy. If the symptoms are mild, and it is confirmed by the vet then I wouldn't treat it. But when a rabbit gets ill with it and has very heavy discharge and is chesty, then antibiotics should be given. This is a highly contagious disease.   

VENT DISEASE - RABBIT SYPHILIS

"Vent" is a sexually transmitted bacterial infection usually seen in breeding animals. Rabbit syphilis is not zoonotic! Sores develop around the vent (genital) area and sometimes on the face. Treatment is with antibiotics: there's some debate whether topically applied cream is adequate or whether injectable antibiotics are required, but most authorities recommend injectable penicillin as treatment, which is remarkably well tolerated and does not seem to cause any gut problems.

RABBIT POX

Rabbit pox is a viral disease that closely mimics rabbit syphilis. It causes crusty, scabby lesions around the genital region, lips, and eyelids that eventually clear up by themselves after a few weeks or months. Pox tends to be diagnosed when "vent disease" fails to respond to antibiotics, but it can be confirmed using skin biopsies and blood tests. This is recent and unpublished information, which has not yet reached textbooks of rabbit medicine.                                             

                              

HUTCH BURN    

 

                

 

Hutch burn is often confused with treponematosis and can be truly differentiated only by the absence of spirochetes on darkfield microscopy and by the lack of antibodies to Treponema cuniculi . It is caused by wet and dirty hutch floors and affects the anus and external genitalia. Also, rabbits that lack adequate sphincter control of the bladder constantly dribble urine and may be affected. The membranes of the anus and genital region become inflamed and chapped. The area soon becomes secondarily infected with opportunistic pathogenic bacteria. Brownish crusts cover the area and a hemorrhagic, purulent exudate may be present. Keeping hutch floors clean and dry and applying nitrofurazone or an antibiotic ointment to the lesions hastens recovery.  

MOIST DERMATITUS     

Female rabbits have a heavy fold of skin on the ventral aspect of the neck. As the rabbit drinks, this skin may become wet and soggy (“slobbers”), which leads to inflammation. Contributing factors include dental malocclusion, open water crocks, and damp bedding. The hair may slip, and the area may become infected or flyblown. The area often turns green if infected with Pseudomonas sp . Automatic watering systems with drinking valves generally prevent wet dewlaps. If open water receptacles are used, they should have small openings or be elevated. Once the area is infected, the hair should be clipped and antiseptic dusting powder applied. In severe cases, parenteral antibiotics may be necessary.  

 

HEAT STROKE         

Rabbits are sensitive to heat. Hot, humid weather, along with poorly ventilated hutches or transport in poorly ventilated vehicles, may lead to death of many rabbits, particularly pregnant does. Affected rabbits stretch out and breathe rapidly. Hutches should be constructed so that they can be sprinkled in hot, humid weather. Free access to cool water should be provided. When the environment can be controlled, optimal conditions are a temperature of 50-70°F (15.5-21°C) and a relative humidity of 40-60%, with 10-20 air changes/hr.  Treatment consists of immersing rabbits in cold water during the heat of the day, especially those that will kindle in the next day or two. FROZEN BOTTLES OF WATER CAN BE PLACED IN THE CAGE WRAPED IN A TEA TOWL AND THE RABBIT CAN LAY UP AGAINST THEM. ANOTHER GOOD IDEA FOR WHEN ITS VERY HOT IS TO PLACE CERAMIC TILES IN THE CAGE.

 

        

HAIR BALLS & HAIR CHEWING

 

Rabbits groom themselves constantly, so the stomach contents often contain hair, which is normally passed through the GI tract and excreted with the fecal pellets. The stomach of a healthy rabbit is never empty and the gastric contents often include a large amount of ingested hair. Hair chewing is generally a result of low fiber in the diet and can be corrected by increasing the fiber or feeding hay along with the pellets. Adding magnesium oxide to the diet at 0.25% also may be helpful. In some cases, hair chewing is a result of boredom. Providing environmental enrichment often halts this abnormal behavior.

The hair becomes a problem only if excess amounts are consumed or if it accumulates in the stomach and blocks the pylorus. If this happens, the rabbit becomes anorectic, loses weight, and dies within 3-4 wk. Premortem diagnosis of pyloric obstruction can be difficult, as palpable hairballs can be an incidental finding and radiography is often nondiagnostic.

GI hypomotility or gut stasis is the primary concern when presented with clinical illness associated with a hairball. Hairballs are more likely a result of anorexia, not its cause. Gas accumulation creates visceral distention and pain. Decreased food intake and GI hypomotility result in elevation of cecal pH and alteration of cecal microflora, creating cecal dysbiosis. Alterations in water and electrolyte balance result in ketoacidosis and hepatic lipidosis. Gastric ulceration and gastric rupture may occur.

The goals of treatment are to remove the obstruction, stimulate motility, restore GI microorganism balance, and relieve dehydration and anorexia. Treatment includes motility stimulants such as metoclopromide (0.5 mg/kg, PO or SC, tid-qid ), fluid therapy, pain medication, and antiulcer therapy. Reestablishment of GI microflora may be assisted by probiotic treatment or cecotrophs from healthy rabbits.

Several remedies have been proposed to assist in the break up or passage of a hairball. Pineapple juice contains the digestive enzyme bromelain and has been used to treat early cases of trichobezoars; an adult rabbit is given 10 mL of fresh or frozen juice through a stomach tube or intubation needle, sid-bid for 3 days. Both the fluid and the enzyme help to break up the matrix of the hairball. Canned pineapple juice is not as effective because the canning process destroys the enzyme. Papaya contains the enzyme papain, also called papayazyme. Papain enzymes do not break down the hair itself, but may help break down the mucus that holds the hairball together. Human health food or nutrition stores carry bromelain and papayazyme supplements as aids to digestion. Mineral oil and laxatives are not effective in removing the hair mass. Roughage (hay or straw) should be fed during the treatment to help carry the hair fibers through the GI tract and out with the feces. Surgical treatment is certain but risky.

Prevention is the best option. Providing a high fiber diet, avoiding stress and obesity, environmental enrichment, and daily combing to remove loose hair effectively prevents this condition. Clinical research does not support routine doses of mineral oil, wetting agents, or proteolytic enzymes as effective preventives.

 

PIN WORMS   

Passalurus ambiguus , the rabbit pinworm, usually is not clinically significant but often is upsetting to owners. It is not common in many rabbits but is distributed worldwide. Transmission is by ingestion of contaminated food or water. The adult worm lives in the cecum or anterior colon. Diagnosis is made by observing the adults at necropsy or by finding the eggs during examination of the feces. Single treatments are not very effective because the life cycle is direct and reinfection is common. Piperazine citrates in the water (3 g/L) for alternating 2-wk periods or fenbendazole (50 ppm in feed for 5 days) are effective treatments. Or from your vet panacue. Rabbit pinworms are not transmissible to humans.

           

INABLILITY TO USE A LEG / LEGS

First, try to determine which leg(s) is/are affected. This may mean gently picking your bunny up (supporting the rear) and trying to get him to stand in an area with good footing.

If your bunny is dragging himself around by his front legs, with his hind legs trailing out behind his, the most likely diagnosis is a back injury. Wrap him snugly in a towel, with the hind end in a natural position (no twisting/bending of the spine), put him in a carrier, and go to the vet. If only one leg is dangling, it is probably broken. Depending on how calm your bunny is, you can either wrap him in a towel or try to place a splint. If he struggles, just use the towel.

To place a splint:
Pad the leg by wrapping it with gauze above and below the area of the break.
Apply a pencil, popsicle stick, or other firm support to the outside of the leg.
Wrap securely with tape or self-adhesive bandage.
Wrap the whole bunny in a towel, place him in a carrier, and go to the vet.

If your bunny is limping, but can still bear some weight on the leg, he has probably sprained/dislocated/fractured/etc his leg. If your bun is young to middle-aged and has no history of kidney or liver disease, you can give him half of a chewable baby aspirin orally. Apply a cold pack wrapped in a towel to the affected leg, and call your vet for an appointment.                                              

DANGEROUS DRUGS

Penicillin should never be given orally because it destroys the cecal bacteria and will kill most rabbits. However, injectable penicillin (flocillin) can be used safely. Any penicillin-based drug can be dangerous for your rabbit, so try to find a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbit-safe antibiotics, and who is familiar with the safer drugs such as Chloramphenicol, Tetracycline, sulfa-based drugs like Septra or TMS, or enrofloxins such as Baytril or Cipro. Never let a veterinarian give your rabbit amoxicillin. It is a pink liquid antibiotic that smells like bubble gum. Amoxicillin is very dangerous for rabbits, and has killed many more than it has helped. Amoxicilin and ampicillin, lincomycin, erythromycin are all penicillin derivatives that have an almost 100% kill rate in rabbits. Baytril should not be used on a bunny whose bones are still developing (under 6 months of age). Baytril is in a class of drugs which can cause problems with cartilage formation in juvenile animals. Chloramphenicol or TMS (sulfas) are alternatives.

OBESITY

Obesity, like so many rabbit disorders, is the result of poor management . Rabbits shut up for long periods in a confined space are most at risk. They need far more freedom to exercise, and possibly a small adjustment to their diet: more greenstuffs, and less high calorie foods such as grains, balanced food pellets and bread. The largest breeds tend to develop a dewlap under the chin.  The does are most prone to this, and although the dewlap may look ominously like a goitre, it is in fact a roll of fatty tissue.  A small one is to be expected in breeds as large as the New Zealand White and the Flemish Giant.  Smaller breeds breeds should maintain their neat build.

COCCIDIOSIS

A microscopic, internal parasite is responsible for this common, but very serious disease of the liver.  The organism is present in the faecal pellets, and so can be transmitted from one rabbit to another, and particularly from a doe to her kittens, in a dirty hutch. Symptoms of coccidiosis are a yellow, jaundiced look, persistent diarrhoea and extreme weakness.  Without treatment the rabbit becomes emaciated, yet develops a pot-bellied appearance due to enlargement of the liver.  Death is due to exhaustion. It is necessary to isolate a suspected case of coccidiosis, and to seek veterinary help immediately.  Drugs can effectively control the disease if it is diagnosed and treated professionally without delay.

SCURVY (Vitamin C Deficiency)

Scurvy, mainly a concern in guinea pigs, is caused by a Vitamin C deficiency. It is said that just two weeks of a low or no Vitamin C diet can cause this disease. Symptoms are swollen, painful joints and ribs, reluctance to move, poor bone and teeth development, lack of appetite and spontaneous bleeding from gums, into joints and in muscle. At first symptoms, a Vitamin C supplement should be added to the food or water several times a week until symptoms disappear. In severe cases, you may require a vet to administer an injection of the vitamin. Supplements should then be added once every week and the diet varied to include more nutrient-rich fruits and vegetables. Keep in mind that Vitamin C has a very short shelf-life and even fortified foods will completely lose their potency after about 6 months.

SEIZURES / CONVULSIONS

These can result from many different conditions affecting the brain. Signs include disorientation, collapse, paddling motion of the legs, eyes rolled back in the sockets, tremors, possible uncontrolled urination and defecation.

In the case of a seizure, first clear the area around the bunny to prevent him from hurting himself. Do not put your hands near his mouth. Talk soothingly to him. Most seizures resolve in 1-2 minutes. Place the bunny in a cool dark place after the seizure. However, if the seizure does not resolve in 1-2 minutes, place the bunny in a well-padded box or carrier and go to the vet. If you have easy access to them, put cold packs around the outside of the carrier.

If your bun is falling/rolling but not having a seizure, he probably has a bad case of head tilt. Wrap him firmly in a towel, call your vet and make an appointment ASAP.

BREATHING DIFFICULTIES

Signs of this are open mouthed breathing, panting, extended head and neck, grayish blue tongue, big movements of the chest and abdomen during inhale - usually accompanied by a reluctance to change position or lie down. Make sure your bun's nose is clear of any blockage. If you see any "snot", hold a warm wet washcloth against her nose for a minute or two (be careful not to obstruct the mouth) and then gently try to remove the blockage with your fingers or tweezers. Be sure to go slowly - this is a sensitive area and you do not want to add any stress! Once you're satisfied that his nose is as clean as you can get it, wrap him loosely in a towel (be careful not to cover her head) and place him in a cool, dry, dark carrier. Go to the vet.                                                      

UNCONTROLLED BLEEDING

Many kinds of trauma can cause bleeding, but most bleeding stops on its own.

To help it stop, apply direct firm pressure with a clean absorbent cloth or gauze. Do not remove the cloth if it gets saturated - this will dislodge the clot. Simply place another layer on top and continue to apply pressure. Once the bleeding appears to have stopped, wrap all the cloth/gauze with tape or adhesive bandage to secure it in place, and go to the vet.

For nosebleeds, apply a cold pack to the bridge of the nose and call your vet for an appointment.

For bleeding toenails, apply styptic powder, flour or talc directly to the nail tip. You may have to repeat the application several times. Despite the way it looks, no rabbit has ever died of exsanguination due to a toenail trim.                                                                                 

DIARRHEA

Diarrhea comes in many types and degrees. Although ALL diarrhea is a sign that something is wrong, the more liquefied and voluminous the stool, the more urgent the situation. Never "wait and see" if your bunny has blown-out, soupy stool - take action immediately! Collect a sample of the stool in a zip lock bag or other clean container and go to the vet.                                                                   

POISONINGS

We all know how much bunnies love to explore with their mouths. This makes them particularly susceptible to poisonings. Signs are variable, but include coughing, seizures, diarrhea, in-coordination, depression and/or excitability. Collect a sample of the suspected poison. If it is a chemical, try to get the product label. Go to the vet.     

EYE INFECTIONS

Domestic rabbits are rather susceptible to eye problems, primarily infections caused by dust and/or other flying matter that accumulates in the tear ducts.  As a result of the blockage caused by the dirt, fluid fills the eye pocket and subsequently flows down the rabbit's cheeks.  What owner can bear to watch his pet weeping?  Prevention of dust accumulation should be stressed, as a cure is never as easy as prevention.  Often only one eye is affected, although some unfortunate rabbits suffer an infection in both eyes.  Eye baths, prescribed by a vet, are frequently required to treat the infection.  The skin and fur around the eyes, likewise, may be affected.  Draughts may also be responsible for eye infections.

HEATSTROKE

Heatstroke is unfortunately common in these animals due to the nature of their bodies' cooling system. Obviously, it occurs more in the summer when animals are outdoors, but it can be caused by improper conditions anywhere. Temperatures should not be allowed to reach above 85 F and humidity should be kept under control (no more than 70%). If you allow your animals to play outdoors (and this is recommended), provide adequate shade and air circulation to prevent heat-related problems. The symptoms are panting, drooling, weakness or lethargy and convulsions in advanced cases. When heatstroke is suspected, animals should be removed to a cooler area and misted with cool (not cold) water. Once this first-aid is undertaken, a vet should be contacted immediately. You can buy heat reflective covers for your hutch and a plastic bottle of water frozen placed in the cage will help.Also ceramic tiles are cool place one in the cage for the rabbit to lay on.