Because female rabbits often mount one another due to sexual frustration (and to establish dominance), same sex pairs who tolerated each other as babies will sometimes begin fighting upon reaching sexual maturity. This can result in very serious injury. Its better to get both spayed at about 6 mths. This will help them to get on together.
Opposite sex pairs will begin reproducing as soon as they mature. You may think you can find homes for your bunny's babies, but we have seen far too many abandoned and dumped pets to think that this is a realistic hope. And for every one produced by a casual breeder, another is put to death at an animal rescue centers because there are simply not enough homes for all of them.
Unspayed female rabbits have a very high risk of uterine, ovarian and mammary cancers. Some reports state that more than 80% of unspayed female rabbits will develop uterine/ovarian cancer by the age of three years.
Upon reaching sexual maturity, male rabbits often begin displaying mounting behavior (on your shoes, the cat, stuffed toys, your leg, your sleeping head...), marking territory with urine and producing a pungent odor. It must be said that some dont if kept on there own.Testicular cancer, while less often reported, does occur in males.
How spaying/castration can help.
1. Rabbits who are spayed (females) or neutered (males) are much less likely to display unpleasant hormonally-induced behaviors.
2. Rabbits who are spayed or neutered produce less odor, due to lower sex hormone levels.
3. Rabbits who are spayed/neutered and housed indoors live much longer than those who are not. "Intact" rabbits live an average of three to six years. The average spayed/neutered house rabbit lives 7.9 years. Many live 10 years or more. (The record is 18 years!)
4. Rabbits who have been spayed/neutered can live with a rabbit companion of the opposite sex without the danger of unwanted litters. Rabbits of the same sex can more easily learn to get along without fighting. Rabbits are highly social, affectionate creatures, and they thrive in the company of other rabbits. (These must be carefully introduced, to avoid fighting. The safest option is to allow your rabbit to choose his/her own partner from your local rabbit rescuer, since most rabbits are very choosy about the company they keep!).
Spaying/neutering your companion will NOT make him/her "fat and lazy." Lack of exercise, wrong foods and boredom will do that. Your rabbit's endearing qualities will NOT change. His/her unacceptable, hormonally induced behaviors usually will. The earlier you spay/neuter (3-5 months for males, 5-8 months for females), the less changes you will notice in your rabbit's behavior.
The males operation is a simple one and he should be well recovered after a couple of days. The wound is very small and usualy heals well. Does are different theirs is a major operation and will have a much larger wound. My advise would be to keep her inside for a good few days. She will need the warmth and some peace and quiet. Check with your vet that she has had pain relief. The most important thing for a rabbit after any op is that they start to eat as soon as possable after their operation. Sometimes with a doe this can take a day so tempt them with anything you know they love. If after two days they are not eating then action must be taken. Call on your vet for advise. Remember that males have to wait for 3 weeks before they can be paired with a female after the op.
Please check your vets out before booking them in for the op. Its vital that your chosen vet had done the ops before and had a very good sucsess rate. If your vet is not used to doing this op it can be fatal for your rabbit. There is a list on the site of rabbit savy vets around the country. These have been recommended to me by users.
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illnesses
ILLNESSES
RABBIT POO
The mystery of rabbit poo unlike most mammals lagomorphs [including domestic rabbits] produce two types of pellets, fecal and pellets (the round ones you find in the litter tray) and cecotropes. The latter are produced in a region of the rabbits digestive tract called the cecum. This contains a natural community of bacteria and fungi that provide essential nutrients.
How does the rabbit get those essential nutrients? He eats the cecotropes as they exit the anus. The rabbits' blissful expression when he's engaging in cecotrophy (the ingestion of cecotropes) will tell you that he finds this anything but disgusting. In fact, rabbits deprived of their cecotropes will eventually succumb to malnutrition. Cecotropes are not feces. They are nutrient-packed dietary items essential to your companion rabbit's good health.
Each individual rabbit usually produces cecotropes at a characteristic time of the day, which may vary from rabbit to rabbit. Some produce cecotropes in the late morning, some in the late afternoon, and some at night. In any case, they usually do this when you're not watching, which might be why some people refer to cecotropes as "night droppings."
Normal Intestinal Products
Anyone who lives with a bunny has seen a fecal pellet . These are the small, brown "cocoa puffs" that we all hope end up mostly in the litterbox. They are round, relatively dry and friable, and composed mostly of undigested fiber. Rabbits do not ordinarily re-ingest fecal pellets, though a few bunnies seem to enjoy an occasional fecal pellet hors d'ouevre.
A normal cecotrope resembles a dark brown mulberry, or tightly bunched grapes. It is composed of small, soft, shiny pellets, each coated with a layer of rubbery mucus, and pressed into an elongate mass. The cecotrope has a rather strong odor, as it contains a large mass of beneficial cecal bacteria. When the bunny ingests the cecotrope, the mucus coat protects the bacteria as they pass through the stomach, then re-establish in the cecum.
DIARRHEA
DIARRHEA
True diarrhea (unformed, watery feces) is relatively rare in adult rabbits. It can be caused by intestinal parasites, such as coccidia (Eimeria spp.), roundworms, tapeworms, or anything that inflames the intestinal lining. Your vetwill be able to examine a fecal sample (you should probably provide the vet with a bit both fecal and cecal pellets) to examine them for signs of parasitic infection.
True diarrhea is more common in baby rabbits. One of the most common causes is coccidia, and if you see runny stool in your baby rabbit, you must get him to the vet as soon as possible for treatment. In a baby rabbit, dehydration caused by diarrhea can rapidly result in death. It is wise to consider runny stool in a baby rabbit a true emergency.
The cecum is a delicately balanced ecosystem. If the intestine is moving too slowly, or if the rabbit is getting a diet too rich in digestible carbohydrates and too low in crude fiber, the complex population of bacteria in the cecum can become "unbalanced." This condition, known as cecal dysbiosis . Simply put, cecal dysbiosis means that the beneficial bacteria (e.g., Bacteroides spp. and a variety of others) are outcompeted and outnumbered by less desirable inhabitants such as yeast (a fungus, usually Saccharomycopsis sp.) or even very harmful bacteria such as Clostridium spp., related to the ones that cause tetanus and botulism.
A rabbit suffering from cecal dysbiosis will produce cecotropes that are mushy, pasty or even liquid. They are usually quite foul-smelling, and often stick to the bunny's back end in great, nasty clumps. These unformed cecotropes are not a primary disease, however. They are a symptom of a disorder somewhere in the bunny's system. In order to cure the runny stool problem, the underlying cause must be addressed.
The Causes of Runny Poo in Baby Rabbits
Weaning Too Young
If the bunny suffering from runny stool is a baby, how old is he? If younger than eight weeks, and not nursing, his runny stool problem may be due to his being weaned too young. Many pet stores will (illegally) sell rabbits younger than eight weeks of age (and some as young as four weeks!), because that is when they are still "cute" and more apt to be purchased on a whim. Sadly, many of these babies will succumb to intestinal disorders.
Unlike most mammals, baby rabbits have a sterile lower intestine until they begin to eat solid food at the age of 3-4 weeks. It is during this time that their intestines are at their most critical phase, and the babies need their mother's milk, which changes pH and provides vital antibodies that help the baby gradually adjust to his changing intestinal environment. Without mother's milk, a baby starting to eat solid food is highly susceptible to enteritis (inflammation of the intestinal lining), which can cause fatal diarrhea.
At the first sign of runny stool in a baby rabbit, off to the vet! Treatment for diarrhea in baby rabbits will probably include subcutaneous fluid thereapy, and administration of oral probiotics. Lactobacillus acidophilus powder (NOT yogurt, which can make the problem worse) suspended in clean drinking water and carefully administered via syringe seems to help foster a healthy intestinal environment and may even soothe intestinal inflammation. A very small amount of a clay-based product such as Kaopectate can help solidify the stool and stop the cycle.
Intestial Parasites
As mentioned before, coccidial infection is very common in some areas, and some vets will simply treat a baby rabbit's diarrhea as coccidia, even without a fecal test. Common antibiotics used to treat coccidia include Albon and the potentiated sulfas, such as Trimethoprim Sulfa (TMZ) or Bactrim.
The Causes of Runny Stool in Adult Rabbits
Obesity Is the bunny with mushy stool stuck to his bottom obese? If so, the cecotropes could be normal, but he can't reach them as they are produced, and so smears them all over his bum in trying to reach them. Calorie reduction (first step: remove commercial pellet food and any starchy treats, replacing them with fresh, fragrant herbs) and exercise are in order.
Arthritis Similarly, a rabbit who is suffering from degenerative joint problems in the spine, hips, or other areas, may not be able to reach his cecotropes easily. He ends up sitting on some of them, and squashing them into his fur. Arthritis can be treated by your veterinarian, who may prescribe a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) such as Rimadyl (carprofen) or Meloxicam, though all the usual cautions for use of NSAIDS apply.
Starch-rich Diet Rabbits, like horses and cattle, are strict herbivores. The rabbit intestine--and its normal bacterial flora--has evolved to feed almost exclusively on grass and herbs. Does your rabbit get starchy treats such as oatmeal, crackers, bread or sweets? Some rabbits with very sensitive intestines can suffer from runny cecotropes even from being fed commercial pellets. Fruit, as healthy as it is for humans, can be too much of a good thing for rabbits. The high level of sugar and starch in table fruit makes them too rich for a bunny except as a very small, occasional treat. A diet too rich in digestible starch is one of the most common causes of runny cecotropes in companion rabbits.
Fiber-poor Diet A rabbit should be fed unlimited grass hay, such as timothy, brome, wheat or oat. DO NOT use alfalfa, as this is far too rich in calories and protein for good rabbit health. If a rabbit does not get unlimited grass hay to nibble on throughout the day, the muscles of the intestine may become flabby, and the normal peristalsis (muscular movements that push food through the gut) will become sluggish. This causes the passage of food through the cecum to be too slow to properly "flush" the bacterial populations, and cecal dysbiosis can result. The high fiber content of grass hay also helps to "dilute" the starch of other dietary items, and helps to provide a healthy intestinal environment. In preventing and curing a runny stool problem, it is very important to provide a heathy diet.
E. CUNICULI
Encephalitozoon cuniculi
Although there is very little conclusive evidence that this microsporidian parasite--related to coccidia and to the protists that cause malaria and other serious diseases--is truly a causative agent of torticollis. However, more and more circumstantial evidence seems to support the contention that--if only in some cases of rabbits with immunosuppression--that E. cuniculi can cause head tilt and other nervous system disorders, such as hind limb paresis, general weakness, and even seizures.
E. cuniculi is apparently passed from rabbit to rabbit via cysts in the urine. The adult organisms inhabit the central nervous system and the renal (kidney) system, and rabbits with symptoms of "E. cuniculi type" head tilt (this is subtly different from that caused by infection, and is difficult to describe) often show signs of renal disease, as well.
At the moment, positive diagnosis can be made only upon necropsy, and even then, histological results are not always conclusive. Some vets take blood samples to send to a laboratory for titer testing, to see whether the rabbit is producing antibodies against E. cuniculi. All this test will tell the vet, however, is that the rabbit has been exposed to the organism. A high titer may indicate that there is an active infection being battled by the immune system, but such results may be interpreted differently by each professional.
Some practitioners have reported success in arresting symptoms of E. cuniculi (head tilt, hind limb paresis, renal dysfunction) with administration of the bendazole drugs (albendazole, oxibendazole, fenbendazole), which cross the blood-brain barrier and inhibit the function of tubulin, a protein vital for the parasite's feeding and infection of new cells. In a recent study, Suter, et al. (2001) reported that administration of 20mg/kg QD (once per day) of fenbendazole (which is metabolized to its active form, oxfendazole) was effective not only at preventing infection of rabbits by E. cuniculi, but also at eliminating signs of E. cuniculi infection in seropositive rabbits after four weeks of treatment. This is a promising new finding for a disease that was considered fatal and untreatable not long ago.
PARALYSIS
PARALYSIS
Paralysis is defined as loss of the ability to move a body part. Unfortunately, companion rabbits sometimes suffer paresis of the hind limbs that makes them unable to stand with those legs, and to locomote normally.
There are several reasons a bunny can lose the use of the back legs, including
trauma to the spine, pelvis, or limbs
arthritis of the spine or pelvis
degenerated, damaged, or ruptured vertebral disc
the sporozoan parasite, Encephalitozoon cuniculi, the pathogenicity of which is controversial.
Trauma, arthritis, or other degenerative process must be diagnosed via radiography. Once the exact nature of the problem is determined, some mobility may be restored in the short term by a small dose of short-acting corticosteroids under the strict supervision of your vet
If the problem is chronic, rather than acute (as from trauma, which may necessitate immediate palliative care and cage rest, as prescribed by your veterinarian), physical therapy may be very helpful. Some rabbit "parents" report success at restoring a bunny's movement by enlisting the services of a qualified, vet who is also a skilled acupuncturist. Massage, acupuncture and skeletal manipulation can sometimes make a very great difference in the bunny's mobility and quality of life.
Encephalitozoon cuniculi is a protozoan parasite that infects the renal and nervous system of rabbits.
EAR INFECTIONS
EAR INFECTIONS
Of the causes listed, we have found that by far the most common is a middle or inner-ear infection. The Vestibular Apparatus, largely responsible for the sense of balance, is located in the bulla of the skull, a large, hollow space near the base of each ear. An ear infection can cause the tissues of the ear and inside the bulla to become inflamed, and this can interfere with proper function of the Vestibular Apparatus. A very severe inner ear infection can actually cause the bulla to fill with hard, caseous (i.e., of a tough, cheeselike texture) pus. This presses on the Vestibular Apparatus, and prevents its proper function. Any inflammation of the VA can cause head tilt.
Under the best circumstances, pus is visible inside the ear, and the vet can take a sample for culture This will reveal (1) the species of bacteria most likely responsible for the infection and (2) the types of antibiotics most likely to kill that species/strain of bacteria. Although the most common pathogens we have seen associated with head tilt are Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Pasteurella multocida, but there are many others which also can cause this problem. Each species/strain of bacteria has its own specific sensitivity and resistance to various antibiotics. Before you throw good money after bad in a "guess" at an effective antibiotic (some vets will automatically prescribe Baytril, since it's safe--but it may not be effective against the bacteria causing the problem!), it's really best to invest in For a culture and sensitivity test if there is pus inside the ear to culture.
Once the results of the culture and sensitivity test are back, don't be surprised if your vet tries a combination of two different antibiotics to kill the bacteria. Many experienced rabbit veterinarians are now finding that combining two antibiotics is more effective at killing some of the more resistant bacteria found in rabbit ear infections. It is especially important that your veterinarian be familiar with the specific needs of rabbits in terms of antibiotics, since some of these drugs (e.g., any oral penicillins such as amoxycillin or ampicillin, and any lincosamine antibiotics) can be deadly to rabbits, even if they are commonly used on other species.
Whatever the prescription, it is vitally important that you continue to give the rabbit the full dose for the full time span your vet has indicated. Stopping the antibiotic therapy before the infection is fully gone can simply promote the selection of a resistant strain of bacteria, since those are the last ones to die off when exposed to antibiotics. If you stop the antibiotics too soon, only the most resistant ones will be left to reproduce and repopulate your poor bunny's ear!
In some cases, an ear infection appears highly resistant to the most commonly used antibiotics. A relatively recently "rediscovered" therapy that has proven highly effective in cases of head tilt, jaw abscesses and other infections of the head is treatment with bicillin a rabbit-safe combination of injectible Penicillin-G Procaine and Benzathine. This has been used on rabbits who were deemed terminal and untreatable, and produced miraculous cures. It is something to consider if conventional antibiotic therapies are not effective.
While the antibiotics are doing their work, your vet might also prescribe other drugs to help restore balance and control the discomfort associated with vertigo. Meclizine (commercially known as Anti-Vert) is excellent for controlling dizziness, though it will not work for every rabbit. If meclizine does not control the nystagmus, your vet might prescribe a course of short-acting corticosteroids to reduce the inflammation interfering with the vestibular apparatus. We have found that these drugs can sometimes help restore normal posture even before the infection is fully cured.
It can sometimes take weeks or even months to completely cure an inner/middle ear infection. This may sound like a long time, but if supportive care is offered, and the rabbit continues to eat and drink normally and is still interested in life, it means she's not ready to give up. The condition is disorienting, but does not seem to be painful. The illness is temporary, if hard to watch, but it's worth a course of supportive care to see your bunny happy and running around again.
SORE HOCKS
Pododermatitis is also referred to as "bumblefoot" and "sore hocks," and most commonly occurs in guinea pigs and rabbits. It usually affects the bottom of the hind feet and hocks (the lower part of the back leg that touches the ground when the animal is sitting). In rabbits, the hind feet are more frequently affected, whereas guinea pigs more commonly have problems on the front feet. "Podo" refers to the foot, and "dermatitis" refers to inflammation of the skin.
What causes pododermatitis?
Excessive pressure on the foot may cause loss of hair and calluses. It may also damage the skin causing open wounds and infection of the tissues of the feet. The infection may even spread to the bones. The pressure most often occurs if a large rabbit is housed on a hard floor or if a guinea pig is housed on a wire floor with no access to a solid floor. It is more common in hot, humid weather.
Factors that may predispose an animal to developing pododermatitis include:
Loss of hair on the foot, which may be the result of heredity (Rex breeds of rabbits)
Housing on a wet surface (e.g., damp resting board, or wet bedding), which can soften the feet and predispose to infections
Large size or obesity, which puts more weight on the feet
Lack of movement in a small cage
Abrasions from rough, irregular, or wire floors
Poor sanitation, which results in a large number of bacteria in the environment
Inadequate vitamin C in the diet of guinea pigs
In rabbits, repeated thumping of the hind feet
The signs:
Animals with pododermatitis may start favoring one of their feet or appear lame and reluctant to walk. There may be loss of hair on the affected foot, thickening of the skin, swelling, redness, and sometimes open, draining areas or scabs. It is a painful condition and guinea pigs may vocalize if it is severe. Some animals may become depressed and not eat.
For mild cases (slight swelling and redness), simply changing the environment and diet of the animal may be all that is needed. This may include providing:
A smoother floor
Softer and thicker bedding
Dry surfaces
Increased cleanliness
Increased vitamin C for guinea pigs
Fewer calories to overweight animals
Mild cases generally respond well to management changes. With more severe cases, however, the prognosis is guarded. It is often difficult for the infection to be controlled and the foot kept clean since bandages are often not tolerated well.
(1) A very good remedy is Clenderm Cleansing Lotion made by Univet and obtainable from good Veterinary surgeons. The plastic bottle has a special pull-up applicator and the lotion is dropped onto the broken (or unbroken) spot without rubbing it in. Repeat daily until healed. The fur will soon grow back. If the rabbit licks it off it will do no harm.
(2) Gentian Violet solution (obtainable from good old-fashioned chemists) can be painted on, but stains very badly so wear gloves if using this method. The painting will have to be repeated every two or three days. Eye Problems: Golden Eye Drops (colourless) obtainable from the Chemist, used twice daily, might help. If not, see "General Infection".
HEAD TILT
HEAD TILT
The condition medically known as torticollis (which is Latin for "twisted neck") and sometimes as "wryneck" causes a rabbit's head to twist over sideways. Often, torticollis is accompanied by a rapid side-to-side movement of the eyeballs (nystagmus), an indication that the bunny is suffering from dizziness/vertigo that should be treated along with the problem causing the head tilt.
Symptoms may appear very suddenly or exhibit a gradual onset, but the result is the same: a bunny is walking around with his head on "sideways." In some very severe cases, the bunny may be so disoriented that he simply cannot walk, and spends much of the time rolling sideways in a wild attempt to regain his footing. This is most distressing to the human caregiver, and far too many a bunny with head tilt has become the victim of his caregivers' well-meaning desire to "not let him suffer."
In truth, head tilt is usually quite treatable, though recovery may be slow. Euthanasia should be considered only as a last resort, when all attempts to cure the infection have failed, leaving the bunny in misery, unwilling to eat, drink or act normally at all. Note, however, that a permanently tilted head is not a symptom requiring euthanasia! Many rabbits with their heads tilted at a jaunty angle are living completely happy lives, running and playing with all the vigor of their straight-headed bunny pals. The most important thing is to cure the source of the head-tilt symptom. Once this is accomplished, improvement of the rabbit's posture will follow more gradually, with physical therapy and exercise.
It is not at all uncommon for symptoms of torticollis to appear very suddenly. As with almost any illness, the more rapidly the disorder is diagnosed and treated, the greater the chance for full recovery.
Causes of Torticollis Torticollis is not a single disease. It is a symptom of a problem with the rabbits' balance system, components of which include the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord, collectively called the "CNS"), the visual system, the vestibular apparatus in the inner ear, and even the pads of the feet, which tell the bunny he's standing on solid ground, the way gravity "intends" him to. Hence, a rabbit exhibiting torticollis may have a problem with one or more of the balance components, and causes of this include (but are not limited to)
middle- or inner-ear infection
parasitic infection of Encephalitozoon cuniculi in the CNS
parasitic infestation of a nematode worm, Baylisascaris procyoni
stroke
abscess or tumor in the brain (intracranial abscess)
head trauma
DAILY HEALTH CHECK
Your rabbit's health care is an ongoing process. While we recommend that you take your rabbit to the
veterinarian once a year for a check up, you should be monitoring your rabbit's behavior and health every day. In addition, you should do your own check up at home once a month. If you notice anything out of the ordinary, contact your veterinarian.
Mouth/Teeth: Check your rabbit's mouth. Verify that the teeth are still growing straight, not overgrown, and your rabbit isn't drooling. Look for a nice healthy pink color in the gums.
Fur/Skin: Make sure that your rabbit's coat is healthy, doesn't have any flakes, and that there are no lumps under the skin.
Ears: Look inside to see if they are clean. If you see wax build up or flakiness, a trip to your veterinarian is needed.
Nails: Trim your rabbit's nails, if needed. Long nails may tear off, bleed and become infected.
Toes: Feel the toes. Make sure they are all intact, straight and no signs of abcesses.
Feet: Check that the bottom of the feet are covered with fur, or if you see skin, that it isn't bright red or infected. (Callous is OK)
Scent Glands: If the scent glands are dirty, clean gently with a Q-Tip dipped in mineral oil.
Eyes: Make sure there isn't discharge from the eyes. Lift up the lid and check for a healthy pink color.
Nose: Look for a dry clean nose.
Respiration: Listen for clear regular breathing.
Heart: If you have a stethoscope, listen to your rabbit's heart. Make sure the beat sounds regular.
Droppings: Nothing looks nicer than large moist bunny poops. Small or malformed droppings could be a sign of a problem.
Urine: If your rabbit suddenly starts urinating outside the box, a trip to the vet is needed. How does the urine look? Rabbit urine does vary in color and is sometimes red, but if you notice anything in it such as red spots or flakes, please have it checked out. Also, there should not be urine stains on your rabbit's fur.
Disposition: Has your rabbit's personality changed? Not as active? Not eating as much? Any changes in behavior should result in a trip to your veterinarian.
If you do this once a month you will have a better sense of what is normal for your rabbit and you will pick up on problems earlier. This, in conjunction with an annual vet exam, will help make your rabbit a healthier one!